B and I are starting to realize that our weekend activities are starting to sound the same from one weekend to the next, but it is true that we went to yet another Indian restaurant this past Friday.
This particular restaurant, Barka Saffron, is in an area of the city I have never been before and we definitely had to take a taxi. The restaurant is intended to be a place welcoming of the arts community and a relaxed, homey environment. On these fronts, it certainly lives up to its hype. The decor is reminiscent of a coffee house or less smokey version of a pub. The restaurant is near the University of Agriculture and Veterinary Medicine, so their were several student/professor types there and frankly of all the Indian restaurants we have been to it was the busiest. In addition to their Indian menu, they also have a Tapas menu and some Thai offerings. B and I chose to stick with the Indian menu and ordered as appetizers the lamb samosas for B and vegetable pakoras for me. The appetizers were quite good and the portions large (still no tamarind chutney, though). The story changed when it came to the entrees however. For starters, the breads we ordered, puri and roti, were awful! The puri were so fried the outsides were crispy and the roti literally had no taste. Furthermore, my entree of aloo ghobi was very boring. Indian food should be a lot of things, but boring is not one of them and B's spicy lamb was certainly not spicy. The food was what you would imagine a home cook's first attempt at making Indian food without a specific recipe might be. Fair but missing on spices. This would be fine if we were, in fact, at someone's home, but as we paid for the food, it was disappointing. In addition, the portion sizes were pretty small, which is disappointing as well. Barka Saffron is a great place to go to be with friends, have a drink (their red wine by the glass was pretty nice) and a snack and have a nice evening, but if it's great Indian food you are craving, there are other places in Bucharest to go. I initially wanted to give Barka Saffron 5.5 samosas and B, as always more generous, said 6 so make of it what you will. The tour of Bucharest's Indian restaurants will continue. One more to go! -S
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Romanian Class
On Thursday (3 days ago), I attended my first formal Romanian class. Despite myself, I was a bit nervous beforehand and B sweetly walked me to class, which is not very far from our place. When I first arrived, we were all asked to gather in one classroom and based on the chatter, I became more nervous as those chattering around me seemed all able to speak Romanian fairly well. Fortunately, once we split up into the Beginner (me), Intermediate, and Advanced classes, I felt more comfortable since the other 6 students in my class seem more or less on my level. Our teacher seems pretty nice and was good at getting everyone to participate. I am the only American in the class, the others are Greek, Italian, Bulgarian, Spanish, Polish, and Turkish. Most seemed to be in Romania for employment. Since it was the first meeting, we met only for one hour instead of two and I found myself walking home with the woman from Poland. It turns out she lives pretty close to us as she is the wife of the Ambassador from Poland and their Embassy and the Ambassador's residence are a couple blocks from our street. She was very nice, but I am sure she will excel in this class as she already speaks Polish, English, French, and Russian! We will meet twice a week for two hours each session until mid-March. I hope this allows me to get a bit more proficient with my Romanian and helps to pass my time. My one regret is that I wish the classes were during the day when B was at the archives instead of the evening, but all in all, I think it will be a good experience. -S
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Errands and Education
We apologize for the lack of posts lately. The last several days have been rather unremarkable with B and I just getting back into the swing of things. B has been going back to his research centers to get some work done and I have been trying to accomplish some errands. Due to the lack of a clothes dryer here, we have been taking our heavier clothes (ie sweaters, etc) to our local dry cleaners. We must go quite often, as the ladies who work there know both of us by sight and though its not a particularly interesting errand, it has become my favorite place to go since they are always so nice. One clerk in particular is always a delight. Despite my lack of Romanian language skills and her lack of English, she always goes out of her way to make sure I understand the procedure, going as far as walking me to the posted schedule on the door or price list on the wall to point out the info she wants me to understand. She often talks to me a lot, but I usually only understand about 10% of what she is saying. She is so nice, however, that I always smile and say "da" (yes) a lot so she won't know I have no idea what she is saying. Also, their entire price list was significantly decreased at the beginning of December and they have a frequent user program, so all in all an enjoyable errand.
I also went grocery shopping and was able to buy "American Chocolate Cookies" from a store that seems to carry a lot of international products. We had bought one package of these last week and B is a fan. Though the packaging simply calls them Chocolate cookies, the signs on the display specify they are an American type cookie and indeed they are pretty similar to Chips Ahoy or such. I was also able to find today (at last) all-purpose, glass and bathroom "wipes", which is fantastic since I have really been missing bleach wipes. Now if I could just find a Febreeze like product, we would be in business.
In addition to the errands, I also found out today that I will be able to start formal Romanian language courses on Thursday through a local organization. I am excited to start the classes and hope that I can meet some other folks from the class. I had to take a pre-test today for placement and I think it will be pretty clear that I belong in the beginner class. I will also continue to meet with our landlords' son for conversation, which might be a better use of his time with me. -S
I also went grocery shopping and was able to buy "American Chocolate Cookies" from a store that seems to carry a lot of international products. We had bought one package of these last week and B is a fan. Though the packaging simply calls them Chocolate cookies, the signs on the display specify they are an American type cookie and indeed they are pretty similar to Chips Ahoy or such. I was also able to find today (at last) all-purpose, glass and bathroom "wipes", which is fantastic since I have really been missing bleach wipes. Now if I could just find a Febreeze like product, we would be in business.
In addition to the errands, I also found out today that I will be able to start formal Romanian language courses on Thursday through a local organization. I am excited to start the classes and hope that I can meet some other folks from the class. I had to take a pre-test today for placement and I think it will be pretty clear that I belong in the beginner class. I will also continue to meet with our landlords' son for conversation, which might be a better use of his time with me. -S
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Restaurant Review #3
After the snow on Thursday and given how tired we still felt, we both took it really easy on Friday and spent time recovering and relaxing around the apartment. Finally around mid-afternoon we couldn't take it any longer and went out for a walk to the dry cleaner's and then around a few streets in our neighborhood we had not been to yet. It was a nice walk and it was not nearly as cold as we thought it would be. When we returned from our walk, we decided to go out for dinner at an Indian restaurant we had not been to yet, Haveli. We started out lucky as not only were we able to find a cab just outside of our house, but the driver actually knew where the street of the restaurant was located. In addition, his route showed us a short cut to one of the major shopping areas we frequent, which will be especially useful this winter. Off to a great start!
On to the actual restaurant. While the street on which it is located leaves something to be desired, the interior of the restaurant was really nice and they actually had separated smoking and no-smoking sections. The menu was fairly large and offered the usual North Indian items, as well as a few others. We both ordered a drink and decided to share an order of the vegetable samosas-we must have a baseline by which to compare all restaurants, you see. The samosas were good-not the best ever, but good. The spices did not seem to be completely evenly mixed and the dough was extra crispy on the edges. Once again, there was no tamarind chutney to be had. Its not clear if the ingredients are not available here, if there is a perception that the Romanian palette won't enjoy it (though they seem to love all things sweet) or it simply doesn't seem essential, as it does to us, but we wish we could get some.
For dinner B ordered the Kadai Gosht and I ordered the Palak Paneer (I have given up on ordering Dal Makhni here) and we got an order of stuffed (aloo) paratha to share and some rice. The dinner was excellent, but the portions were a bit small. B really enjoyed the lamb and agreed that the spice level was just right. My spinach was very good, if a little creamier than I am used to. Overall, we have agreed we would rate Haveli 7 Samosas- tying it with Karishma. We would gladly return there and also were sent home with a copy of their menu, which will be wonderful since they deliver! -S
On to the actual restaurant. While the street on which it is located leaves something to be desired, the interior of the restaurant was really nice and they actually had separated smoking and no-smoking sections. The menu was fairly large and offered the usual North Indian items, as well as a few others. We both ordered a drink and decided to share an order of the vegetable samosas-we must have a baseline by which to compare all restaurants, you see. The samosas were good-not the best ever, but good. The spices did not seem to be completely evenly mixed and the dough was extra crispy on the edges. Once again, there was no tamarind chutney to be had. Its not clear if the ingredients are not available here, if there is a perception that the Romanian palette won't enjoy it (though they seem to love all things sweet) or it simply doesn't seem essential, as it does to us, but we wish we could get some.
For dinner B ordered the Kadai Gosht and I ordered the Palak Paneer (I have given up on ordering Dal Makhni here) and we got an order of stuffed (aloo) paratha to share and some rice. The dinner was excellent, but the portions were a bit small. B really enjoyed the lamb and agreed that the spice level was just right. My spinach was very good, if a little creamier than I am used to. Overall, we have agreed we would rate Haveli 7 Samosas- tying it with Karishma. We would gladly return there and also were sent home with a copy of their menu, which will be wonderful since they deliver! -S
Friday, January 9, 2009
Snow!
Yesterday afternoon as I left the Holocaust Institute, it began snowing here in Bucharest.
Knowing that it was too cold to walk the entire way home as is my usual want, I trudged to the Universitate metro stop, but took a different route. Rather than walking straight up Calea Victoriei and turning onto Regina Elisabtea, I chose to navigate the cobbled alleys and side-streets of the Lipscani neighborhood. Afficianados of medieval architecture would generally find themselves disappointed by Bucharest, which has little to offer in the form of a concentrated "Old Town". The Lipscani neighborhood affords one charming exception to this rule. I started with the oldest section, walking past Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc's Inn) a hostelry situated along the original trade route through Bucharest. Currently closed for renovations, the Inn is at least two hundred years old, which makes it young compared to the structure immediately behind it, the citadel built by Vlad Tepes--aka the historical Dracula--in the fifteenth century. Not much remains of the structure today, and a good deal of imagination is needed to mortar the fragments together into the grand structure it once was. Winding may way from there, I walked down Str. Lipscani itself, which in the 1800s and early 1900s was known as one of Bucharest's premiere mercantile spots. Lipscani intersects with Calea Victoriei just past the former headquartes of the Romanian National Bank, built in 1885. And so it felt like I was walking through the centuries, snow-blanketed and quiet.
At home, though, we're reaping the benefits of 21st-century technology. We finally figured out how to port video from our laptop to the tv, so now we can watch our DVDs on a bigger screen. We also upgraded our cable to digital for a very low price, meaning we get over thirty additional channels--plenty of distractions to keep us occupied during snow days.--B
Knowing that it was too cold to walk the entire way home as is my usual want, I trudged to the Universitate metro stop, but took a different route. Rather than walking straight up Calea Victoriei and turning onto Regina Elisabtea, I chose to navigate the cobbled alleys and side-streets of the Lipscani neighborhood. Afficianados of medieval architecture would generally find themselves disappointed by Bucharest, which has little to offer in the form of a concentrated "Old Town". The Lipscani neighborhood affords one charming exception to this rule. I started with the oldest section, walking past Hanul lui Manuc (Manuc's Inn) a hostelry situated along the original trade route through Bucharest. Currently closed for renovations, the Inn is at least two hundred years old, which makes it young compared to the structure immediately behind it, the citadel built by Vlad Tepes--aka the historical Dracula--in the fifteenth century. Not much remains of the structure today, and a good deal of imagination is needed to mortar the fragments together into the grand structure it once was. Winding may way from there, I walked down Str. Lipscani itself, which in the 1800s and early 1900s was known as one of Bucharest's premiere mercantile spots. Lipscani intersects with Calea Victoriei just past the former headquartes of the Romanian National Bank, built in 1885. And so it felt like I was walking through the centuries, snow-blanketed and quiet.
At home, though, we're reaping the benefits of 21st-century technology. We finally figured out how to port video from our laptop to the tv, so now we can watch our DVDs on a bigger screen. We also upgraded our cable to digital for a very low price, meaning we get over thirty additional channels--plenty of distractions to keep us occupied during snow days.--B
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
A Bit of Reflection
S and I have slowly been getting back into the swing of things. On Sunday evening, after a delicious dinner of traditional Romanian cuisine prepared by our landlords and skyping with our families, we nestled into luxurious slumber--until the alarm clock jolted us awake at 3 AM. It was still set from when we had to leave for the airport in December. S was able to go back to sleep, but I stayed up for the next five or six hours. Monday, therefore, was pretty much a wash, and we settled for unpacking our things and buying groceries as benchmarks for a successful day. Yesterday wasn't terribly productive either, but it was nice to relax and settle back into our apartment. Today I returned to my research, and S ran errands. In other words, back to normal.
It seems hard to believe that just a few days ago we were home with our families, and enjoying all the things it is so easy to take for granted. Two events in particular made me feel grateful for my family, and the incredible opportunity to be with them this holiday season. The first was the death of my grandfather Basil (or Pop to me, my sister, and cousins). He passed away less than a week before S and I were scheduled to return to the States. Losing someone you love--and I loved him very much--is always hard, and to have it occur while overseas, so far from everything, only compounds the usual feelings of loss and disorientation. S as always provided immense comfort to me, and tried her hardest to find a way for us to make it back in time for the funeral. Alas, it was not to be. I am extremely grateful for her support. I love Pop very much, and am still very sad I could not make the funeral, but being able to skype with my family that day certainly helped. Although a sad day, I was again reminded of how lucky I am to have such a large and loving family.
When S and I did make it to NC, I felt like we immediately slipped into the comfort of being home at Christmastime. The Germans have a marvelous word for the sensation--Gemuetlichkeit--which is difficult to translate into English but can be taken to mean the epitome of coziness, which is certainly how it felt, especially on Christmas Eve. How shocking and sad, then, when we all woke early Christmas morning (around 1am) to the sound of sirens. Going outside onto the back deck, we could see the cause: the house four lots down from ours had erupted into flames, sending cinders and ash roiling up into the sky where they floated like molten snowflakes. It was beautiful and terrible at the same time. Later Christmas Day, after opening our presents, we walked down to see the remains. There was nothing left save bits from a couple walls. All the rest had burned. Thankfully, the family living there had fled in the nick of time and were safe. Again, it was a time to make me feel grateful for the opportunity to be with family, and safe in our own home.
So now, as we try to accustom ourselves to the long haul, the next seven months in our Romanian sojourn and the cold winter inaugurating it, I hope we can keep those memories of love and family, of gratitude and Gemuelichkeit with us, close to our hearts.-B
It seems hard to believe that just a few days ago we were home with our families, and enjoying all the things it is so easy to take for granted. Two events in particular made me feel grateful for my family, and the incredible opportunity to be with them this holiday season. The first was the death of my grandfather Basil (or Pop to me, my sister, and cousins). He passed away less than a week before S and I were scheduled to return to the States. Losing someone you love--and I loved him very much--is always hard, and to have it occur while overseas, so far from everything, only compounds the usual feelings of loss and disorientation. S as always provided immense comfort to me, and tried her hardest to find a way for us to make it back in time for the funeral. Alas, it was not to be. I am extremely grateful for her support. I love Pop very much, and am still very sad I could not make the funeral, but being able to skype with my family that day certainly helped. Although a sad day, I was again reminded of how lucky I am to have such a large and loving family.
When S and I did make it to NC, I felt like we immediately slipped into the comfort of being home at Christmastime. The Germans have a marvelous word for the sensation--Gemuetlichkeit--which is difficult to translate into English but can be taken to mean the epitome of coziness, which is certainly how it felt, especially on Christmas Eve. How shocking and sad, then, when we all woke early Christmas morning (around 1am) to the sound of sirens. Going outside onto the back deck, we could see the cause: the house four lots down from ours had erupted into flames, sending cinders and ash roiling up into the sky where they floated like molten snowflakes. It was beautiful and terrible at the same time. Later Christmas Day, after opening our presents, we walked down to see the remains. There was nothing left save bits from a couple walls. All the rest had burned. Thankfully, the family living there had fled in the nick of time and were safe. Again, it was a time to make me feel grateful for the opportunity to be with family, and safe in our own home.
So now, as we try to accustom ourselves to the long haul, the next seven months in our Romanian sojourn and the cold winter inaugurating it, I hope we can keep those memories of love and family, of gratitude and Gemuelichkeit with us, close to our hearts.-B
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Exhausted!
We are back in our apartment in Bucharest - safe and sound (as they say) and Exhausted!! Thankfully there are no notable events about the journey or return to Bucharest (no break downs in grocery stores or the sort :)) to mention and we are now currently trying as hard as humanely possible to not go to sleep at 7:30 PM.
We had such a wonderful time back in the US for the holidays and are so thankful to our families for making it happen. The saying "Time flies when you're having fun" has never seemed so true. While waiting to fly back to the US, two weeks seemed to drag on forever, but once we were home we felt like we had just arrived when we were having to pack our bags to return to Bucharest.
We hope you all had a wonderful holiday season, safe travels and a chance to relax and enjoy your loved ones. We are grateful that we did and will start working on getting settled back to life in Bucharest tomorrow- for now we can only concentrate on our fight against jet lag. Wish us luck! -S
We had such a wonderful time back in the US for the holidays and are so thankful to our families for making it happen. The saying "Time flies when you're having fun" has never seemed so true. While waiting to fly back to the US, two weeks seemed to drag on forever, but once we were home we felt like we had just arrived when we were having to pack our bags to return to Bucharest.
We hope you all had a wonderful holiday season, safe travels and a chance to relax and enjoy your loved ones. We are grateful that we did and will start working on getting settled back to life in Bucharest tomorrow- for now we can only concentrate on our fight against jet lag. Wish us luck! -S
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